Sunday, July 31, 2016

Making a New York State National Guard Fatigue Jacket, Part 2

In part two, we have spent about 3.5 hours of putting the pattern pieces together. Since this garment is a tailored piece, a sewing machine was used. When using a machine of the period, after you have ran your pieces through, make sure you leave enough thread because you'll need to tie the ends of all threads off. Modern machines you won't have to do that. 

For the cuff, I decided that using a machine, I would sew the scalloped cuff on as seen in the photo. With about 1.75 inches on each side of the trim piece, we ran the first stitch along the side. We did this because of a post Civil War example where this piece was not whipped stitched by hand. After that, we folded the trim and sewed the rest of it in place. 
This is the finalized scalloped cuff trim. Three small New York state buttons will be attached to the points. 
Next came the cotton batting. Using marks, I ran the lines every three inches leaving the top and bottom without padding. 
This is what the quilting looks like after it's been ran through the machine.
Next came sewing the liner pieces together. After that, all seems had to be pressed open by iron. 
After putting the liner pieces together, it was time for us to do the wool body. Again, the seems had to be pressed open with an iron.
After the wool was put together, the collar was attached. 
After all the pieces of wool and cotton liner are sewn together, now comes the time to put both pieces together. Once joined, turn the jacket right side out and press the seams closed. From this point you can hand top stitch or machine top stitch. This jacket there will not receive any top stitching as one example that I've seen doesn't have it.

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