Making a New York State National Guard Fatigue Jacket, Part 1

So, we decided to create the 23rd New York State National Guard jacket that was worn here in Franklin County, PA in 1863. The jacket itself is very similar to that of the famous 7th New York. The only difference is that black trim on the cuffs are scalloped. After getting about 2.5 yards of blue-gray 100% wool and 100% cotton liner, we laid the fabric out onto the floor and got to work. First, the wool. We laid out Charlie Childs's pattern which is a modified Richmond Depot pattern with some custom work on the collar and got to work. Total amount time for this part was about three to four hours. 

First, the wool. We laid out Charlie Childs's pattern which is a modified Richmond Depot pattern with some custom work on the collar. After tracing the pattern, we cut out each piece and stacked it onto our storage bench. 

Second, we laid out the pattern onto the liner. 

After tracing the pattern, we carefully cut out the liner. 

Cotton batting goes into the chest area of the pattern. Like the mounted services jacket which is quilted, this to will be sewn into the liner (quilted). Although, the jackets are part of a fatigue uniform, the were privately tailored. Some of the men had padding in the chest area for comfort. 

We laid out the pattern for the black trim for the shoulder straps and belt loops. We sewn the black onto the gray wool fabric and iron pressed the pieces. The jackets have no top stitching and neither did the shoulder straps and belt loops. After that, button holes were cut and then they were hand sewn. 

The black scallop cuff that will be sewn on next before we start putting the jacket together.